American IPA

American IPA Recipe

This is the beer style that got me hooked on craft beer. I remember it clear as day. I was in Madison, Wisconsin working on a political campaign. My colleagues thought this “Canuck” should try some “proper” American beer. It was love as first taste.

Recipe Profile

  • Method: 1 gallon BIAB (Brew-in-a-bag), single stage
  • Target OG (Original Gravity): 1.070
  • Target FG (Final Gravity): 1.015
  • Bitterness (IBUs): 61
  • Estimated ABV: 7.4%
  • Boil: 60 minutes


  • 2.75 lbs US Pale Malt
  • 4 oz Caramel Malt
  • 0.25 oz Willamette Hops at 60 minutes
  • 0.25 oz Cascade Hops at 20 minutes
  • 0.25 oz Amarillo Gold Hops at 10 minutes
  • 0.25 oz Amarillo Gold Hops at 5 minutes
  • 0.25 oz Cascade Hops at 5 minutes
  • Safale American Ale Yeast (Fermentis #05)

The Mash

  1. Bring 9.25 litres of water to a temperate of 159°F. Add your grains and give everything a good stir until the whole thing looks a bit like oatmeal. Shut off the heat, cover with a lid, and let it steep at 152°F for 75 minutes.
  2. Then you need to “mash out.” You put the heat back on, and raise the temperature  to 168°F (75.6°C) and keep stirring for 7 minutes.
  3. Remove the grains and prepare for the boil. If you’re using a bag, just pull it out and let it drip near-dry above the pot. If you’re using a colander, strain to remove the grains, preserving the wort, which you’ll add back to the pot.
  4. Check that your gravity is on track and correct it, if needed. You need 91 gravity points for this recipe, and our target post-boil volume is 1.3 gallons.

The Boil

  1. Start the boil by bringing your wort up to a boil. Once boiling, start your timer. Add your bittering hops, as prescribed above.
  2. Meanwhile, prepare your sanitizer solution.
  3. Just before the boil is complete, make an ice batch in your kitchen sink. Load it up with as much ice and cold water as you can. Once the boil is over, transfer your pot to the sink to cool your wort to pitching temperature, as prescribed on the yeast pack. Remember to sanitize your thermometer every time you check the temperature.
  4. Meanwhile, thoroughly clean and sanitize your carboy, screw cap, airlock, funnel, and strainer/colander. You want everything to be ready to go once the wort is at the right temperature.
  5. Once the wort is at pitching temperature, transfer it to the carboy by passing it through a strainer overtop the funnel. Do not fill the carboy higher than the one gallon mark.
  6. Aerate the wort.  Cover the fermenter with a screw cap and gently rock the carboy back and forth for a few minutes to mix in some air.
  7. Pitch the yeast! Use sanitized scissors to cut open the package and pour in only half of the yeast.
  8. Seal the carboy by filling the airlock with sanitizer. Fit it in the screw cap. Move the carboy to a dark spot, free of the home’s daily commotion for at least 14 days (but ideally not more than 21).

Bottling Day

  1. Move the carboy to a the countertop, if it wasn’t already there. If the wort got lots of movement during transfer, let it sit so that any stirred-up yeast has a chance to re-settle.
  2. Sanitize everything that will come in contact with the beer: bottling bucket, auto-siphon, tubing, filler, bottles, and bottle caps.
  3. Dissolve 0.59 oz (17g) corn sugar in enough boiling water to dissolve it. Add the dissolved sugar solution to your sanitized bottling bucket.
  4. Fill your auto-siphon and hose with sanitizer before submerging in the carboy. Transfer the solution to a spare container until the beer has completely replaced all the sanitizer in the tubes. Now you can place the end with the bottle filler in the bottling bucket, which should also be on the floor and gently transfer the beer from the carboy to the bucket.
  5. Transfer all the liquid up and the point where it reaches the sediment. Leave the sediment in the carboy.
  6. Now, move the bottling bucket to the counter and siphon the beer quietly into each bottle. When the liquid gets to the very top of the bottle, remove the bottle filler, which will leave the perfect amount of headspace at the top of the bottle.
  7. Cover each bottle with the sanitized caps and cap them into place, or secure your sanitized swing-top caps if using those.
  8. Store the bottles upright in a quiet, dark corner at 65F (18.5C) or so.
  9. Wait 30 days, if you can. If you’re way too curious (I can’t blame you!) try and hold out for 14 days. If you absolutely can’t wait, you can try after 7 days, but the beer really needs at least 14 days to condition.


13 responses to “American IPA”

  1. Hey Joseph – first off i must say this is a fantastic website. I had previously only tried home brew from a can of either malt extract or concentrated apple juice. This website, as well as a recent successful home brew attempt with ginger beer has inspired me.

    I’ve followed the above recipe and the beer is currently undergoing ITS first ferment (day 2 of 14) – the beer seems really cloudy at the moment – will this likely settle or should i run it through a strainer/cloth again?

    Kind regards


    1. Hi James!

      Thanks for the kind note. You’re still very early in the fermentation. I wouldn’t stress about it yet. It needs time to clear up.

      Cheers – JL

  2. Nichol

    Hello – I am ready to make this but basically it says to use 2.5 gallons of water? Is that correct? I don’t normally use that much water on a 5 gallon brew. Thanks!

    1. Hi Nichol, that’s right. But that’s because we’re using the entire water volume from the start, as this is a BIAB all-grain recipe. It’s designed to yield 1.3 gallons, and assumes water loses to grain absorption and the boil.

  3. Mitch

    Hi there, i’m about to give this recipe a go but wanted to clarify the hops order. Is it .25 Willamette at the beginning of the boil; .25 cascade with 20 min left; .25 amarillo with 10 min left; .25 amarillo, .25 cascade with 5 min left and finally .25 amarillo at the very end of the boil.

    Or is it the complete opposite?

    1. Hi Mitch, yes, you got that right!

  4. Mike

    My boil clearly wasn’t vigorous enough and/or I squeezed a significant amount out of the grain Bag, and wound up with about 6.5L (not quite 1 and a half 1-gallon jugs)… Gravity obviously came out lower, at 1.046… What’s the calculation for priming a different amount?

  5. DOnald Rivard

    how did you come to 91 gravity points?

  6. Adam

    What Lovibond is the 4 oz Caramel Malt?

  7. JOHN

    WHAT Efficiency DO YOU BREW AT?

  8. Eric

    Not sure why this is all caps, sorry… 9.25 Liters was way too much water for me to start with. My pre-boil gravity was about 1.04, and I mashed uncovered. I boiled it down until I reached about 1.07, but once all the hops were filtered out, the my final yield was only 2.7 kg (definitely not 1.3 gallon / 4.9 liters). I suspect I was not able to extract the same amount of sugar from the grains. Any thoughts?

  9. Tony


    I’m about a week into fermentation and it is still fairly cloudy. Should i worry about this or is it common?


  10. Dr Harish Kumar Kabilan

    Can i start with 6 litres instead of 9 litRes?

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