Belgian Dubbel

Belgian Dubbel Recipe

If you love rich and malty Belgian beers that make a good thing of phenolic flavours, mild hop bitterness and a hint of caramel flavours, look no further—a Belgian Dubbel should do the trick. The ABV on this one borders on the edge—it could be a Tripel, but by today’s standards, it still counts as a dubbel.  If you want to try your own hand at a Trappist beer, wait no more. This recipe has your name all over it.

Recipe Profile

  • Method: 1 gallon BIAB (Brew-in-a-bag), single stage
  • Target OG (Original Gravity): 1.070
  • Target FG (Final Gravity): 1.013
  • Bitterness (IBUs): 25
  • Estimated ABV: 7.5%
  • Boil: 90 minutes


  • 2.25 lbs Belgian Pilsner 2-row Malt
  • 4 oz Belgian Biscuit Malt
  • 2.5 oz Aromatic Malt
  • 5 oz Candi Sugar, Amber at 90 minutes
  • 0.15 oz Aurora Hops at 60 minutes
  • 0.10 oz  Saaz Hops at 15 minutes
  • Belgian Ale Yeast (Wyeast Labs #1214)

The Mash

  1. Bring 10.75 litres of water to a temperate of 158°F. Add your grains and give everything a good stir until the whole thing looks a bit like oatmeal. Shut off the heat, cover with a lid, and let it steep at 152°F for 75 minutes.
  2. Then you need to “mash out.” You put the heat back on, and raise the temperature to 168°F (75.6°C) and keep stirring for 10 minutes.
  3. Remove the grains and prepare for the boil. If you’re using a bag, just pull it out and let it drip near-dry above the pot. If you’re using a colander, strain to remove the grains, preserving the wort, which you’ll add back to the pot.
  4. Check that your gravity is on track and correct it, if neededYou need 91 gravity points for this recipe, and our target post-boil volume is 1.3 gallons.

The Boil

  1. Start the boil by bringing your wort up to a boil. Once boiling, start your timer. Add your bittering hops, as prescribed above.
  2. Meanwhile, prepare your sanitizer solution.
  3. Just before the boil is complete, make an ice bath in your kitchen sink. Load it up with as much ice and cold water as you can. Once the boil is over, transfer your pot to the sink to cool your wort to pitching temperature, as prescribed on the yeast pack. Remember to sanitize your thermometer every time you check the temperature.
  4. Meanwhile, thoroughly clean and sanitize your carboy, screw cap, airlock, funnel, and strainer/colander. You want everything to be ready to go once the wort is at the right temperature.
  5. Once the wort is at pitching temperature, transfer it to the carboy by passing it through a strainer overtop the funnel. Do not fill the carboy higher than the one-gallon mark.
  6. Aerate the wort.  Cover the fermenter with a screw cap and gently rock the carboy back and forth for a few minutes to mix in some air.
  7. Pitch the yeast! Pour in only one-third of the yeast vial.
  8. Seal the carboy by filling the airlock with sanitizer. Fit it in the screw cap. Move the carboy to a dark spot, free of the home’s daily commotion for at least 14 days (but ideally not more than 21).

Bottling Day

  1. Move the carboy to the countertop, if it wasn’t already there. If the wort got lots of movement during transfer, let it sit so that any stirred-up yeast has a chance to re-settle.
  2. Sanitize everything that will come in contact with the beer: bottling bucket, auto-siphon, tubing, filler, bottles, and bottle caps.
  3. Dissolve 0.59 oz (17g) corn sugar in enough boiling water to dissolve it. Add the dissolved sugar solution to your sanitized bottling bucket.
  4. Fill your auto-siphon and hose with sanitizer before submerging in the carboy. Transfer the solution to a spare container until the beer has completely replaced all the sanitizer in the tubes. Now you can place the end with the bottle filler in the bottling bucket, which should also be on the floor and gently transfer the beer from the carboy to the bucket.
  5. Transfer all the liquid up and the point where it reaches the sediment. Leave the sediment in the carboy.
  6. Now, move the bottling bucket to the counter and siphon the beer quietly into each bottle. When the liquid gets to the very top of the bottle, remove the bottle filler, which will leave the perfect amount of headspace at the top of the bottle.
  7. Cover each bottle with the sanitized caps and cap them into place, or secure your sanitized swing-top caps if using those.
  8. Store the bottles upright in a quiet, dark corner at temperatures between at 65F (18.5C).
  9. Wait 30 days, if you can. If you’re way too curious (I can’t blame you!) try and hold out for 14 days. If you absolutely can’t wait, you can try after 7 days, but the beer really needs at least 14 days to condition.


7 responses to “Belgian Dubbel”

  1. Greg

    Thanks for this recipe. It’s pretty good. Proud I was able to make it thanks to you. I botched it my first time around cause I didn’t understand cooking times and did everything backwards. (I added candid 90 mins after boil had started and not at beginning). But I didn’t right and it’s good now. Is it normal to see matter in my glass after pouring from bottle? Like clumps and what not?


    1. Hi Greg! I’m glad it worked out. The matter is likely yeast, which is totally normal. When you pour a homebrew, try to leave the last little bit in the bottle (and try not to stir the bottle — let is sit in the fridge upright when chilling so the yeast falls to the bottom and stays there).

  2. David Chang-sang

    Trying this out this evening Joseph!!
    Just a quick note to those who may not be as familiar (like myself) regarding the Target OG. The 91 points you need here takes into account an end result of 1.3 Gallons at the Target OG of 1.070 – that is post boil.

    To calculate the pre-boil gravity you’d have to take into account the fact that you have 2.84 Gallons of water (for the mash) and your end volume (being 1.3 gallons) and your target og (70 points) – so the formula should be:
    Pre-boil gravity points = (end volume * target gravity points) / pre-boil volume
    Pre-boil gravity points = (1.3 gallons * 70) / 2.84 gallons
    Pre-boil gravity points = 91 / 2.84 = 32.04

    So pre-boil (to check if you’re on target – step 4 of “the mash”) should come in at about 1.030 specific gravity. Adjusting from there (now knowing the pre-boil gravity) will be easier – of course, as you’ve mentioned elsewhere, this will vary from brewhouse to brewhouse depending on equipment etc.

    Dave 🙂

    1. Damn! That’s awesome Dave. I’m going to weave that math into the other recipes when I get a chance to update the site.

      1. John yaNcsek

        Can we start with gallons, since we finish end volume in gallons? Less conversions for me to f up.

  3. Doug

    Hi!- what does the first sentence mean when it states ‘bring 10.75 of water’… what are the units we’re talking about?

    1. Hi Doug, that would be litres! Thanks for the catch. I’ll fix!

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