Session IPA

Session IPA Recipe

There are times when you want a smack of hop flavour all afternoon long. Throwing back double IPAs could make for a punishing morning the next day. If you want to sip slow and long, this IPA recipe stays light on the ABV, intense on the hops.

Recipe Profile

  • Method: 1 gallon BIAB (Brew-in-a-bag), single stage
  • Target OG (Original Gravity): 1.050
  • Target FG (Final Gravity): 1.011
  • Bitterness (IBUs): 39
  • Estimated ABV: 5.2%
  • Boil: 60 minutes


  • 1.75 lbs Pale Ale (2-Row)
  • 4 oz Cara-Pils
  • 1.5 oz Crystal Malt (10L)
  • 1.5 oz Munich Malt (10L)
  • 0.25 oz Amarillo Gold hops at 60 minutes
  • 0.95 oz Amarillo Gold hops at the end of the boil
  • Safale American Ale Yeast (Fermentis #05)

The Mash

  1. Bring 9 litres of water to a temperature of 157°F. Add your grains and give everything a good stir until the whole thing looks a bit like oatmeal. Shut off the heat, cover with a lid, and let it steep at 152°F for 75 minutes.
  2. Then you need to “mash out.” You put the heat back on, and raise the temperature to 168°F (75.6°C) and keep stirring for 7 minutes.
  3. Remove the grains and prepare for the boil. If you’re using a bag, just pull it out and let it drip near-dry above the pot. If you’re using a colander, strain to remove the grains, preserving the wort, which you’ll add back to the pot.
  4. Check that your gravity is on track and correct it, if needed. You need 65 gravity points for this recipe, and our target post-boil volume is 1.3 gallons.

The Boil

  1. Start the boil by bringing your wort up to a boil. Once boiling, start your timer. Add your bittering hops, as prescribed above.
  2. Meanwhile, prepare your sanitizer solution.
  3. Just before the boil is complete, make an ice batch in your kitchen sink. Load it up with as much ice and cold water as you can. Once the boil is over, transfer your pot to the sink to cool your wort to pitching temperature, as prescribed on the yeast pack. Remember to sanitize your thermometer every time you check the temperature.
  4. Meanwhile, thoroughly clean and sanitize your carboy, screw cap, airlock, funnel, and strainer/colander. You want everything to be ready to go once the wort is at the right temperature.
  5. Once the wort is at pitching temperature, transfer it to the carboy by passing it through a strainer overtop the funnel. Do not fill the carboy higher than the one gallon mark.
  6. Aerate the wort.  Cover the fermenter with a screw cap and gently rock the carboy back and forth for a few minutes to mix in some air.
  7. Pitch the yeast! Use sanitized scissors to cut open the package and pour in only half of the yeast.
  8. Seal the carboy by filling the airlock with sanitizer. Fit it in the screw cap. Move the carboy to a dark spot, free of the home’s daily commotion for at least 14 days (but ideally not more than 21).

Bottling Day

  1. Move the carboy to the countertop, if it wasn’t already there. If the wort got lots of movement during transfer, let it sit so that any stirred-up yeast has a chance to re-settle.
  2. Sanitize everything that will come in contact with the beer: bottling bucket, auto-siphon, tubing, filler, bottles, and bottle caps.
  3. Dissolve 0.59 oz (17g) corn sugar in enough boiling water to dissolve it. Add the dissolved sugar solution to your sanitized bottling bucket.
  4. Fill your auto-siphon and hose with sanitizer before submerging in the carboy. Transfer the solution to a spare container until the beer has completely replaced all the sanitizer in the tubes. Now you can place the end with the bottle filler in the bottling bucket, which should also be on the floor and gently transfer the beer from the carboy to the bucket.
  5. Transfer all the liquid up and the point where it reaches the sediment. Leave the sediment in the carboy.
  6. Now, move the bottling bucket to the counter and siphon the beer quietly into each bottle. When the liquid gets to the very top of the bottle, remove the bottle filler, which will leave the perfect amount of headspace at the top of the bottle.
  7. Cover each bottle with the sanitized caps and cap them into place, or secure your sanitized swing-top caps if using those.
  8. Store the bottles upright in a quiet, dark corner at 65F (18.5C) or so.
  9. Wait 30 days, if you can. If you’re way too curious (I can’t blame you!) try and hold out for 14 days. If you absolutely can’t wait, you can try after 7 days, but the beer really needs at least 14 days to condition.


8 responses to “Session IPA”

  1. Anthony Bailey

    Hello Joseph, I’ve bottled this recipe saturday, smelled wonderful. Can’t wait to taste it after carb/conditioning. However, while looking at this recipe I thought something was missing. After comparing it to the same one in the downloaded recipe book, sure enough, the Dry hopping of 0.50 oz of Amarillo gold is missing. Just thought you’d want to know.

    1. Thanks Anthony! I’ll check the doc and update soon. I gave a bunch of new recipes I’ll be publishing soon.

      1. Anthony Bailey

        thanks for the reply, That sounds great. I’m looking forward to the new list of recipes. I’ve made a few of them so far and they’ll soon be ready for drinking. This Session IPA is going to be one of my favorites I think.

      2. Sviatoslav


        Which one is wrong – PDF or website? Should I add dry hops?


  2. Hi

    Just started brewing – got given a brooklyn brewshop kit. Comparing thier recipies to yours you seem to use much more water during the maSh – please Could you let me know why that is

    Thank you !


  3. Gavin

    Hey Joseph,
    A newbie to all grain brewing. When your strike water do you slowing bring it up to temp or overshoot the temp and let it fall prior to adding your grains?


    1. Hi Gavin,

      The strike temperature is the temperature of the water when you add the grains. The water will then lower and you want to maintain the steep temperature noted.


  4. Nick C Beagin



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