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American Pale Ale II
The first NEIPA I brewed is admittedly complicated. As I have experimented with this beer style, I have sought to make it easier to brew. Here I cut out the whirlpool step altogether and simplified the dry hop schedule. And to make things even simpler, I cut down the mash and boil times in half (50/50!), inspired by the short and shoddy methods of the brülosophy team. It worked well. In the end, the beer tasted as good—if not better—than my original recipe, with half the hassle.
The Mash
- Bring 7.4 litres of water to a temperature of 159°F. Add your grains and give everything a good stir until the whole thing looks a bit like oatmeal. Shut off the heat, cover with a lid, and let it steep at 152°F for 30 minutes.
- Remove the grains and prepare for the boil. If you’re using a bag, just pull it out and let it drip near-dry above the pot. If you’re using a colander, strain to remove the grains, preserving the wort, which you’ll add back to the pot.
- Check that your gravity is on track and correct it if needed. You need 88 gravity points for this recipe, as our target post-boil volume is 1.3 gallons.
The Boil
- Start the boil by bringing your wort up to a boil. Once boiling, start your timer. Add your bittering hops, as prescribed above.
- Meanwhile, prepare your sanitizer solution.
- Just before the boil is complete, make an ice bath in your kitchen sink. Load it up with as much ice and cold water as you can. Once the boil is over, transfer your pot to the sink to cool your wort to pitching temperature, as prescribed on the yeast pack. Remember to sanitize your thermometer every time you check the temperature.
- Meanwhile, thoroughly clean and sanitize your carboy, screw cap, airlock, funnel, and strainer/colander. You want everything to be ready to go once the wort is at the right temperature.
- Once the wort is at pitching temperature, transfer it to the carboy by passing it through a strainer overtop the funnel.
- Aerate the wort. Cover the fermenter with a screw cap and gently rock the carboy back and forth for a few minutes to mix in some air.
- Pitch the yeast! Use sanitized scissors to cut open the package and pour in the yeast.
- Seal the carboy by filling the airlock with sanitizer. Fit it in the screw cap. Move the carboy to a dark spot, free of the home’s daily commotion for at least 14 days (but ideally not more than 21).
- Five days before bottling day, add the dry hops.
Bottling Day
- Move the carboy to the countertop, if it wasn’t already there. If the wort got lots of movement during transfer, let it sit so that any stirred-up yeast has a chance to re-settle.
- Sanitize everything that will come in contact with the beer: bottling bucket, auto-siphon, tubing, filler, bottles, and bottle caps.
- Dissolve 0.59 oz (17g) corn sugar in enough boiling water to dissolve it. Add the dissolved sugar solution to your sanitized bottling bucket.
- Fill your auto-siphon and hose with sanitizer before submerging in the carboy. Transfer the solution to a spare container until the beer has completely replaced all the sanitizer in the tubes. Now you can place the end with the bottle filler in the bottling bucket, which should also be on the floor and gently transfer the beer from the carboy to the bucket.
- Transfer all the liquid up and the point where it reaches the sediment. Leave the sediment in the carboy.
- Now, move the bottling bucket to the counter and siphon the beer quietly into each bottle. When the liquid gets to the very top of the bottle, remove the bottle filler, which will leave the perfect amount of headspace at the top of the bottle.
- Cover each bottle with the sanitized caps and cap them into place, or secure your sanitized swing-top caps if using those.
- Store the bottles upright in a quiet, dark corner at 65F (18.5C) or so.
- Wait 7 days, if you can, before drinking. Why the shorter wait period? This beer style needs to be consumed as fresh as possible, as it can turn quickly.
Recipe Profile
- Method: 1 gallon BIAB (Brew-in-a-bag), single stage
- Target OG (Original Gravity): 1.068
- Target FG (Final Gravity): 1.017
- Bitterness (IBUs): 35
- Estimated ABV: 6.7%
- Boil: 30 minutes
Ingredients
- 1 lbs 7 oz Pale Malt
- 1 lbs 7 oz Malted Oats
- 0.35 oz Amarillo at 15 minutes
- 0.35 oz Mosaic at 5 minutes
- 0.40 oz Citra at the end of the boil
- Dry Hop for five days:
- 1.25 oz Mosaic
- 0.40 oz Amarillo
- 0.40 oz Citra
- London Ale Yeast III (Wyeast Labs 1318)
Hi Joseph,
I’m getting my ingredients together to brew this recipe back to back with your first ne ipa recipe, just to see how they compare side by side. I noticed that while your mash & boil times here are cut in half, the hop bill is basically doubled. I’m all for a lot of hops punch, but double just looks like a lot. Wanted to double check with you on the quantities for the Fifty-Fifty here. Thanks!
Hi Ryan, yes, those are the right amounts.
Hi,
Would it work of i increase batch size to 4 gallons and Put straight in a keg afterwards?
Of course! But you’ll need to adjust the quantities, obviously. Keep in mind my recipes yield 1.3 gallons on brew day. So, to get to 4 gallons, you’ll need to multiply the ingredients by (4/1.3) = 3.07.
Hello
Just wanted to confirm there is no hop addition at the BEGINNING of the boil? The first hop addition is at 45 mins, the amarillo.
Thanks
Hi Paul, yes, that’s correct!
How much of the yeast do I use?
How much of the yeast shall I use?
Do you have any tips for dry hopping using a 1 gallon carboy? I tried to use a hop bag but there seemed to be no way to get that in there when full of the hops required. I put them in loose and now it looks like a big mess in there.
something seems off on this recipe, too much water or to short a boil. I am a novice and follow the recipe to the letter…twice. OG way to low
So you pitch the whole pouch of yeast? Seems like way too mUch?
Hey Instead of Malted Oats May i Use Flaked Oats ???
MAY I use flaked oats instead of Malted and MAY I use s-04 because where i live it is impossible to find the other yeast
I Made this NEIPA and am waiting to see how it turns out. I bottled today and the gravity sample was really good. I mashed a little longer and boiled a little longer with a 2 gallon boil to get 1.3 gallons in the fermenter. Ended up with 1.055 pre-boil gravity, 1.074 post-boil and finished at 1.012 FG (8.2%). I used yeast harvested from a local brewery’s NEIPA, not sure what that is as they won’t tell me. I added a small bittering hop addition at the beginning of the boil because I felt like I wanted it a little more bitter. I am glad I did with the higher alcohol content. I was not sure about the high percentage of oats and wheat (46%) but it seems to be working OK. The brewing supply did not have malted oats so I used quick Oats from the grocery store. Nice to be able to experiment with a small batch and not risk so much malt and hops on the unknown.
Hi mate, could I ask you for advice please? I also added my own hops, changed the Malt Bill to suit what I had lying around. I stuck to the prescribed amounts of water and grain though and was a little short. Couldn’t quite fill the demijohn.
How much water did you start with, how much grain and what were your mash and boil times.
Thanks pal,
Rich
England
HoW would i use thIs recipe in a non BIAB method?
I Used flake oats as there were no malted oats at the brew suppl store. This RECIPE worked great. One of the best beers i have made. I was not sure about the high percentage od wheat and oats but it was very nice.
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Just curious how much yeast to use as well. Half the packet i assume ? Will need confirmation im trusting this recipe Cant wait to try it out